Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Pintucked Shoulder Shirt

Here is the tutorial for the last shirt in my "One Pattern - Three Shirts" series. If you missed the other two you can find them here and here. I call it the pintucked shoulder shirt. The neck in a loose, hanging neckline, so you need to wear it with a tank top underneath. I think it looks really nice with a lacey top, but plain would go too.

What you will need
T-shirt Pattern
1-2 yards of knit fabric

Download my pattern here for size Medium or draft a pattern according to my post here.

Now make the following alterations on the front bodice:

Mark a line 5 inches down your shoulder part, parallel to the shoulder line.

Cut the line and you will now have two pieces.

Place the small shoulder part on a separate piece of paper and trace. Now continue the outer lines of the shoulder piece upwards for three inches and connect the corners. This is your new shoulder piece (it is longer than the original because we will make the pintucks. The goal is to have it approximately the size of the original after you make the pintucks).

Remember, for all pieces cut the material 1/2 an inch larger than the pattern piece for seam allowance!
Cut out a front bodice piece and a back bodice piece out of your knit material. Remember, the diagonal line is the fold on the front piece.
Cut out the sleeve option you would like to use.
Cut out two "extended" shoulder pieces out of your material (make sure you fold your fabric in half so you have a left and a right shoulder). In addition cut two "original" shoulder pieces out of your material (left and right). Don't forget to add seam allowance all around the pieces.

Now make little marks along the long side of the "extended" shoulder pieces, 1/2 an inch apart from each other.

Starting at the top, fold along the short side of the shoulder piece, between your marks (so that the two marks lie on top of each other) and sew across. The edge of the fabric should be lined up with the inner side of the right side of your presser foot (does that make sense? See picture).

Do this the whole length, until you get to the bottom.
Now place your shoulder strip on your pattern to make sure it is back to the original size (plus-minus).

Iron all the tucks downwards.

Take your "original" shoulder pieces you cut out and sew them to your pintucked shoulder pieces, right sides together, using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Sew around three sides, leaving the bottom open. Clip corners, turn and press.

Now pin the bottom of your shoulder piece to the diagonal line on the top of your front bodice (where you "cut off" the shoulder piece), right sides together and sew across.

Your front should look like this now:

Mark the middle of your neckline with a pin. Now starting from one shoulder, pin down your neckline all the way across. You will start out pinning half and inch and gradually increase as you get to the middle, and then decrease again so that you are at half an inch when you get to the other side. In the middle my fold is two inches.

Sew across the neckline, with half an inch seam allowance.
Starting about 3.5 inches inward, stich across again, this time in a moon shaped manner.

Now take your back piece and fold over the neckline 1/4 an inch and then another 1/4 an inch. Stitch across the neckline, using a stretch stitch.

Sew your shoulder seams.

Sew your side seams.

Lay your top flat and straighten out the bottom, cutting off any extra material.  

Sew on sleeves. I used the gathered sleeve option for this top.

Hem the bottom folding it over 1/4 of an inch twice and stitching across or put on a band (see how here).

Find a nice lacey tanktop and try on your shirt!

I will be linking up to some of the link parties on this page . 



  1. Another fabulous tutorial, Mira and a very feminine top.

  2. These are really cute! You did a great job!

  3. Cutest shirts ever! I love the fact that you can use one pattern for three shirts. I wish they had more of these with baby sewing patterns, so that you could get more bang for your buck. I'm probably looking in the wrong places, too though.

    1. Your comment inspired me to write a post about changing your patterns for different outcomes. Maybe it will help you out...

  4. i like the one with the v-neck type of collar. you can make me one of those for my b-dy!!!!
    love, Elly

  5. I love this top and all the variations are great as well. I'm hosting a sewing challenge all about pin-tucking, smocking, and/or pleating---I hope you'll check it out:
    I pinned this post to our challenge pinterest page:
    Rikka J.

  6. Thank you so much for sharing your shirt on A Crafty Soiree! This week kicks off our September Celebration, marking a year of weekly Crafty Soiree parties. I'm excited to let you know you're project will be featured in this week's party post along with a giveaway from Shabby Apple! Please come and check out your feature, it will be up tonight after midnight EST.

  7. Very neat idea! I love these pretty tops.